Thursday, January 29, 2015
Here, when I got to the back and needed to make it curve, I had to use shorter tubes on the inside triangles than on the outside ones. The ideal length for the inside tubes would have been around 18mm, so I just alternated between 15mm tubes in 1 oct and 20mm ones in the next. One of these days I'd like to skip the curve and do a piece that would look sort of like a tic-tac-toe grid.
Thursday, January 1, 2015
The thing I probably should have talked more about concerning this necklace is the tube itself. It took several tries to get it right. The nice thing about doing more random structures is that when you need it to curve, you can just start throwing in a few short tubes on one side and longer ones on the other side till you get the amount of curve you need, But with a piece like this, where you keep repeating a structural shape, you have to get the shape right so that it will produce the curve you need. My initial plan was that my tube would be octahedrons ( I call them octahedrons because they're made of 8 triangles, but, of course, they're not equilateral triangles as they would be in a true octahedron). The cross-section triangle would be all short (15mm) tubes . The tubes running more or less lengthwise would be 20 mm, except that to get the curve I wanted the triangle on the outside would have 25mm tubes. I'm trying to use tubes of 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 mm and make that work without cutting special lengths for a particular piece. Anyway, it didn't work--the curve was too tight. I tried 2 more variations before I came up with this one, where the cross-sectional triangle alternates between a 15mm equilateral one and an isosceles one. That made a curve that was just a bit too shallow, but I had a few longer tubes (28-ish mm) so I could put them in the 2 outside triangles at the very center, i.e. bottom of the necklace and get a sharper curve just there.
This brings up a whole new idea--that I have to move from thinking of a piece as a chain of units, and think more about the overall piece as a unit. I came up against this same issue some years ago in a sphere I made and posted about at the very start of this blog. My idea was to take the basic dodecahedron ( Plato bead in
Now I'm have the same issue with my tube necklaces. Here's one in particular. I've been using a chain of tetrahedrons to make either a bracelet or a necklace. Mostly the only way I could make the structure go from making a bracelet to making a necklace was to make all the tetrahedrons bigger.
But then I rethought, and realized there are sort of 3 parts to the structure. The last picture shows it (I hope) with bugle beads. First there's a series of triangles at the top of the structure, which will be the inside of the curve.In this example they're a sort of light iridescent gray, and you can see them by themselves on the left. By playing with the size of these triangles you can vary the height of the piece. I have tended so far to make it tall and sort of dog collar-ish. Then there are the tubes (here dark gray and spirally) that turn those original triangles into tetrahedrons, so that the dog collar becomes a spiked dog collar, as in the center. Actually you could leave the piece like this, and one of these days I probably will.
Finally, you have the zigzagging tubes on the outside edge of the curve. Here I have just 2 bright silver ones on the far right. It turns out that the length of these tubes determines the shape of the curve. Here I've used tubes that are shorter than the other ones. By using shorter tubes (20mm instead of 30mm) you almost eliminate the curve in the structure. The longer the tube the tighter the curve. So now I understand the structure and will have much more control over what I build with it.
This has been pretty windy, but spelling it out helps me get it into my head, so if you've gotten this far, my apologies for the length. Also the paragraphing got real weird at the end and I don't have the energy to go back and fix it. Happy New Year.